Comsumers have been led to believe that preservatives are necessary ingredients in
cosmetics to make them safe and to extend their shelf life. This paper presents
an alternative to the use of preservatives by formulating self-preserving
beauty products. What prompted this article is a discussion I had on how
consumers do not like preservative free cosmetics because they are unpleasant
to use, have fragrances and the fact that they have to be refrigerated. While
that is true about a lot of preservative free cosmetics, better
self-preserving cosmetics with a long shelf life are available.
Consumers just need to know what to look for in the ingredients.
First of all what is self-preserving? Simply put, it is a formulation free from traditional
preservatives by creating a hostile environment for microorganisms without
diminishing quality. Consumers want
more liquid cosmetics products. To achieve the desired emulsion, formulators
commonly add water. The water creates a
favorable environment for microbes to grow, therefore the use of preservatives.
It is possible to formulate cosmetics that have the desired
texture, contains less water and are self-preserving. If water is the first
ingredient most likely the cosmetic product has preservatives to give it a long
shelf life. If water is listed as one
of the first few ingredients you can identify right away it will be necessary
to add preservatives.
Ingredients like Cocoa butter and Shea butter have high levels of natural antioxidants that can self-preserve if they are left in their original state. Once cocoa butter is extracted from nuts, it is stored as a solid brick. Shea butter is thick and dense. So how do we get these great ingredients to a desirable cosmetic product? Using essential oils and extracts instead of water. Certain oils and extracts exhibit excellent antmicrobial properties making it possible to formulate self-preserving cosmetics.
Jojoba oil for example has a long shelf life and is an excellent selection for this application (USPTO Patent # 20110250293). Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax that is derived from the jojoba plant, a wax-rich shrub that is native to desert areas of North America. Jojoba oil is a good carrier oil because of its similarity to the oil that our own skin produces, called sebum. This means that our skin knows exactly how to deal with it, absorbing it quickly and easily, using it to create a powerful barrier against moisture-loss, as well as against allergens and irritants.
The patent also references Anhydrous Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salt) for among several reasons it will inhibit the growth of mold. Mold must have a moist environment to grow. The salt's dehydrating properties nicely inhibit this. Also studies show Magnesium and sulfate are both easily absorbed through the skin. So having it in skin creams makes the perfect sense. Sulfates play an important role in the formation of brain tissue, joint proteins and the proteins that line the walls of the digestive tract. They stimulate the pancreas to generate digestive enzymes and are thought to help detoxify the body of medicines and environmental contaminants.
It is not necessary to add
preservatives in cosmetics to extend product shelf life or provide a desirable
texture. It is important that consumers educate themselves about cosmetics and
the ingredients used in general. Brenese has created
cosmetic products that are self-preserving with no preservatives, colors and fragrances. Each ingredient plays a different role in protecting the skin. Put together superior creams are created.
Resources
Self-preserving
cosmetics: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Agnes Mwangi is Managing director of Brenese
Care products
She has written and published two patents (Self-Preserved
products)
